Your RV air conditioner works harder than almost any appliance in your rig. And it’s the first you’ll notice when it stops working. Staying on top of maintenance keeps it cooling efficiently, prevents costly repairs, and extends the life of the unit, which can be pricey to replace. Whether you’re learning seasonal camper AC maintenance, need to replace accessories, or want to explore other air conditioner options, this RV AC maintenance checklist has you covered.
RV AC Maintenance Checklist
Now that you have a better understanding of the various components of roof-mounted AC units, it’s time to focus on what you should be doing to keep your air conditioner running efficiently.
Inspect and Clean The Air Filter
This is the easiest and most important step for AC maintenance. Find your air filter under a removable panel on your AC’s air distribution box. Consult your owner’s manual if you’re having trouble locating it. Most owners should remove, inspect, and clean the AC air filter quarterly (every 3-4 months). If you’re a full-time RVer, increase that frequency to monthly.
When cleaning, you can simply use warm water to rinse the dust and other contaminants from your filter. Vigorous scrubbing shouldn’t be required, but you may gently use a sponge and mild detergent to remove pesky residue. Allow your filter to dry completely before putting it back into the distribution box.
When inspecting, you’re looking for any holes or tears that would compromise the filter’s ability to catch contaminants. Holes or tears are a sign that it’s time for an AC filter replacement.
Only the manufacturer’s intended filter should be used. Aftermarket or residential filters may cause the AC to malfunction. While your filter is out, clean the evaporator coil fins above it. Dust and pet hair build up here, too, and a dirty coil reduces airflow just like a dirty filter does.
A soft brush attachment on a vacuum works well for loose dust. For coils on Dometic® units specifically, avoid high-pressure water or harsh chemical cleaners. A gentle, non-corrosive coil cleaner is safer for the fins and won’t risk bending them.
Inspect The Shroud
At least annually, you’ll need to safely climb onto the roof to check the shroud. Park on level ground and confirm your ladder is stable and rated for your weight. Check your owner’s manual to see whether your roof is rated as walkable. Some RV roofs are not designed to support a person’s weight directly.
Once safely on the roof, look for large cracks or missing chunks that could allow moisture and debris to enter. These should signal that it’s time for a shroud replacement if it isn’t adequately protecting the system underneath. This will help you avoid more expensive repairs down the line.
Also, use a flashlight through the shroud’s vent openings to inspect the components underneath for signs of nesting activity, physical damage, or overheated components or wiring. When storing your RV for long periods, it’s best to use an air conditioner cover to protect the shroud from moisture and UV exposure.
Technician Tip: It’s smart to check the A/C, rubber roof membrane, and all appurtenances from the roof or a step ladder every time you reach your destination. You can’t be too cautious with this one, and damage often occurs while traveling. If that damage goes unnoticed and unrepaired, it can allow for water infiltration from dew, rain, or air conditioner condensation
Check The Seal On The AC’s Exterior
While you’re already safely on the roof, use a flashlight to inspect the seal between the AC and the roof. You are looking for the gasket to be 50% compressed, and you should also check that the air conditioner is still securely mounted to your RV’s roof and centered over the opening. If you suspect the gasket is compromised or improperly compressed, it’s a good time to have your AC unit inspected by a professional technician.
How Often Should You Service Your RV AC?
Most RV manufacturers and technicians recommend a full professional AC service once a year, ideally at the start of camping season. That’s in addition to (not instead of!) the DIY checks below, which you should do more often.
If you’re a full-time RVer or you run your AC heavily all season, twice a year (spring and fall) is a better cadence. A professional service typically checks refrigerant levels, electrical connections, and the condition of the capacitor — things that are difficult or unsafe to check yourself.
Quick Guide to RV Air Conditioner Types and Components
There are several different types of air conditioning units you might find in an RV. Roof-mounted AC units are by far the most common. You may also find window-mounted or portable units, especially in smaller RVs.
Several different components make up an RV’s AC system. Being aware of these AC types and components will help you maintain your RV’s air conditioner more effectively.
- The shroud covers the AC’s exterior and protects it from the elements.
- The cooling unit sits under the shroud and pulls in room air, removes the heat, and returns cooled air to your RV’s interior.
- The air distribution assembly, mounted inside your RV below the cooling unit, circulates air and typically houses the AC control dials or switches. Smaller campers house all the air distribution in a single box. Larger RVs use ducting and vents in the ceiling to provide more efficient cold air distribution.
- The air filter, usually housed in the air distribution assembly, removes pollen, dander, dust, and other allergens before air recirculates inside your RV.
Many newer RVs feature AC systems with wall-mounted thermostats. Some units simply have a dial on the air distribution assembly that controls the AC’s internal thermostat. If you’re interested, here’s a deeper look at how RV thermostats work.
For a full comparison of each type, and how all these parts fit together, see our guide to choosing the best RV air conditioner.
RV AC Coil Cleaning FAQs
Once per camping season is a reasonable baseline for most owners. If you’re a full-time RVer, or you camp somewhere dusty, pollen-heavy, or humid, check the coils (and your filter) monthly.
For routine dust and light buildup, a soft-bristled vacuum attachment and a gentle, non-corrosive coil cleaner are usually enough to clean RV AC coils. Heavier buildup or bent fins may require removing the shroud for full access, which is also a good time to inspect for shroud cracks and gasket compression.
Signs Your RV AC Needs Professional Service
Routine maintenance prevents most AC problems, but a few signs mean it’s time to stop DIY-ing and call in a certified technician:
Your AC runs, but you’re not sure what’s actually wrong. Start with our RV Air Conditioner Troubleshooting Guide for general diagnostics covering power issues, tripped breakers, water leaks, strange noises, and more.
It runs, but never actually cools the RV. See Why Is My RV AC Not Cooling? for a step-by-step diagnostic path.
You’re hearing a new rattle, buzz, or grind. Read Why Is My RV AC Making Noise? to identify the sound and what it usually means.
Water is dripping inside despite a clean filter and a properly compressed seal. Explore Why Is My RV AC Dripping Water Inside? to rule out a drain pan or gasket issue.
If problems persist, schedule RV AC repair service to schedule a complete inspection of your RV’s air conditioner and cooling system. We’ll help you resolve any issues so you can get back to recreating with the peace of mind that you’ll come home to a nice, cool RV!
What questions do you have about RV air conditioner maintenance? Let us know in the comments below!
I have a dometic Mach 15 air conditioner that’s ducted in my 2018 avenger by primetime. The coils tend to ice up lately and I’m not sure what it is. Any help would be great?
Hi Venida!
These will ice up for several reasons. They require a minimum number of vents for airflow, and if any are blocked it will ice up. The return air filter must only be the Dometic filter and it must be kept clean or icing will occur. If equipped with the quick cool vent, this should only be used for initial cooling of the coach.
If left open more that 20 minutes or so, the inside coil will drop below 32 degF and ice up. The space above the return air filter is called the plenum. There is a divider between the return air and the freshly cooled air that must be tightly sealed with foam or foil tape, otherwise the cold air will enter the return side and ice the coil.
Running the fan on low speed will cause icing due to the reduced airflow across the coil. On manually controlled models, going to bed with the thermostat setting too low can cause icing at night especially at higher altitudes. Most models have a thermistor, or freeze probe, placed in the fins on the lower right quarter of the inside coil. If the coil gets too cold, it will shut off the compressor for a little while to prevent icing up. If this probe has failed or failed out of it’s location, there is no way to prevent the coil from getting too cold.
Hope this helps, but let us know if you have any follow up questions!
my dometic roof air kicks in and then kicks back off, do you think it’s the starter coil need replacing? The thermostat seem to be working okey.
Are you speaking of the unit “cycling” while in operation? Mine does the same thing if this is what you are speaking of. My unit is Dometic also. I have had a dozen rigs in my time and this is the 1st time this has occurred for me. I live in Florida nowadays, so I thought maybe the “humidity” may play a role in the “cycling”. By cycling I am describing the unit in cooling mode and both compressor and fan are operating then the unit will “cycle” and either go back into same mode or slow or speed up the fan speed. It’s been doing this since purchasing the rig just over 2 years ago. P.S. I am a maintenance/PMS junkie.
Hi Floyd!
Can you further explain the symptoms you’re encountering?
When you say kicks in, is the fan running continuously or is the fan turning on and off?
What signs and symptoms lead you to believe the thermostat is functioning properly?
It can sometimes be tough to troubleshoot from afar, and while there’s a lot you can DIY at home, there’s no substitute for having a certified technician inspect the unit!
We just replaced our first hail totaled travel trailer with a unit we feel suits us presently. Having two sets of grandchildren who love to camp with us it was imperative to have a bunks and a u-shaped kitchen. All of this leads to more length, however, what I found with the 2019 Forest River Grey Wolf was what we ended up with. Having experienced some wonderful camping trips helped us in our decision making. One thing I might add is beware of the designation i.e. 29TE in our case can be misleading. The camper is actually nearer 33′ plus hitch. The location of the tandem axels seems to make this a nicer towing vehicle than our previous unit and also has 15″ wheels vs 14″ And there is a difference where the rubber meets the road.