RV life is much more comfortable when your camper’s AC works efficiently. But there are some important operating principles that differ from residential air conditioners. This guide will answer general frequently asked questions about RV air conditioners.
Can You Run an RV Air Conditioner on 30-amp Power?
If your RV requires 30-amp service, that will be enough to run its air conditioner. With multiple air conditioners, you’ll likely need 50-amp service. If your RV requires 50-amp service, you may be able to use a 30-amp adapter to run a single air conditioning unit, but not multiple.
Can You Run an RV Air Conditioner on 15-amp Power?
Theoretically, 15 amps is enough to run an average air conditioner. The problem is figuring out whether your specific A/C is “average.” You’ll need to know the exact amperage required. Unfortunately, you won’t be able to run your A/C on 15-amp power if you have a larger model.
Even if your AC draws less than 15 amps, you may be unable to run any additional electrical appliances without overloading the circuit. For example, the combined draws of your A/C unit, RV refrigerator, and electric water heater may be enough to trip a breaker.
There’s also the question of surge watts versus running watts. An RV air conditioner that draws less than 15 amps while running still draws more when starting up.
To combat this issue, some owners install an RV air conditioner soft start device or manually soft-start by turning on the fan for about 30 seconds before switching to the lowest A/C setting and gradually adjusting for comfort. However, installing soft-start devices or manually operating an A/C with less than the designated power-supply minimums may void your warranty, damage the equipment, and possibly cause a fire.
Your best bet for safely running your RV’s air conditioner is connecting to the electrical service your RV is designed for. That said, we are now seeing new choices for owners whose needs fall outside a typical RV setup in a campground.
These lower-amp-draw A/C units typically use a variable-speed inverter compressor that runs on 120VAC or 12VDC power, depending on the model and intended application. These A/Cs promise the flexibility to run on systems that add a large inverter, a small 2,200-watt generator, or a large DC battery bank to the existing shore power option. With an appropriate energy management system (EMS), some even state the ability to run two ACs on a 30-amp coach.
Can I Run My RV Air Conditioner on a Standard 120V AC Edison Outlet?
It’s POSSIBLE to run your air conditioner when plugging into a standard outlet at home or on a portable generator IF the A/C unit draws less than the outlet’s rated amperage AND you’re not running too many additional RV appliances simultaneously.
Standard household (Edison) outlets are typically rated for either 15 or 20 amps. Check the breaker for that specific circuit to know the actual limit you’re working with before plugging in.
Even if your AC’s running amps fit within that limit, you’ll need to account for surge watts (the extra power it draws on startup) and know what else is sharing that circuit. If someone plugs in a box fan on the same circuit, that alone could be enough to trip the breaker.
Does an RV Air Conditioner Run on Propane?
RV air conditioners run on 120-volt AC power from shore power, a generator, or an inverter, not propane. Propane fuels your RV’s furnace burner (though the furnace’s fan and ignition still run on 12V DC power), and on some rigs, the water heater and refrigerator. Technically speaking, if your RV has an onboard generator that acts as that 120VAC power source, one might say that the A/C runs on the liquid fuel (LP or gas) required to power the generator. But the air conditioner itself runs entirely on 120V AC power to operate its compressor.
How Do I Use an RV AC Safely?
Here are a few tips for safe use:
- Turn off all appliances before starting your air conditioner. RV air conditioners draw more when starting up (surge watts) than they do once they’re operating (running watts). Turning off all 120VAC appliances or, when applicable, switching them to LP gas or 12VDC power reduces the risk of overloading a circuit when the air conditioner starts.
- Inspect the shroud regularly. The shroud protects the A/C components mounted on your roof. Check it before and after each trip to ensure it isn’t cracked or missing. Cracks allow dust, moisture, and other debris to degrade sensitive A/C components.
- Keep doors and windows closed. Minimize the stress on your unit by trapping cool air in and keeping warm air out. Strategically closing window shades and using roof vent insulating pillows can also make a big difference.
- Park in the shade. This also reduces how hard your air conditioner needs to work by limiting your RV’s exposure to direct sunlight. Just be mindful of loose branches overhead that could rub or fall onto the RV. If possible, park adjacent to the shade tree(s) rather than under them, as sap and other debris can pose maintenance issues.
How Many Amps Does an RV Air Conditioner Use?
The average RV air conditioner draws between 11 and 16 amps, but some units (smaller and larger) fall outside that range. Energy efficiency also comes into play. You can have two A/C units of the same size, but the more efficient model will usually draw fewer running amps.
Here’s a quick breakdown of the average A/C amp draw relative to unit size in British thermal units (BTUs):
Technician Tip: Amp ratings are listed for 70℉. Add 1 amp for every 10℉ outside temp above 70.
| AC Capacity (BTUs) | Running Amps |
| 5,000 | ~4.35 |
| 6,000 | ~5.22 |
| 8,000 | ~6.96 |
| 10,000 | ~8.70 |
| 12,000 | ~10.43 |
| 13,500 | ~11.74 |
| 15,000 | ~13.04 |
| 18,000 | ~15.80 |
| 20,000 | ~17.39 |
How Many Watts Does an RV Air Conditioner Use?
Calculating camper AC wattage requires multiplying amps by voltage. RV air conditioners run on a 120-volt circuit, which you can multiply by the A/C’s amperage to convert to wattage. You’ll notice that you can also divide an air conditioner’s BTU rating by 10 to get an approximate measure of running wattage.
This is helpful when determining whether you can safely run your air conditioner with a generator, which usually has a wattage rating rather than an amperage rating.
Here are some average RV air conditioner wattage ratings by A/C size:
| AC Capacity (BTUs) | Running Wattage |
| 5,000 | ~500 |
| 6,000 | ~600 |
| 8,000 | ~800 |
| 10,000 | ~1,000 |
| 12,000 | ~1,200 |
| 13,500 | ~1,350 |
| 15,000 | ~1,500 |
| 18,000 | ~1,800 |
| 20,000 | ~2,000 |
Will a 3500-watt Generator Run an RV Air Conditioner?
The short answer is yes, but larger units draw more power and may limit your ability to run other RV appliances, even with a 3500-watt generator. You’ll need to know your air conditioner’s surge and running watts.
Here are some generator size recommendations based on your RV’s electrical demands:
- 30-Amp RVs: Minimum 3,500-watt generator
- 50-Amp RVs: 6,000 to 8,000-watt generator for RVs with dual ACs; 10,000 to 12,500-watt generator for RVs with three ACs.
Technician Tip: Just like the 80/20 rule for towing capacity, we shouldn’t use the smallest possible generator. To maximize the generator’s fuel efficiency and minimize wear and tear, choose a generator that is about 20% larger than the minimum size. Learn more: What Size Generator Do I Need for My RV?
How Long Can You Run an RV Air Conditioner?
When camping, you can run your A/C 24 hours a day. You’ll just want to use a modest thermostat setting that allows the compressor to cycle on and off periodically. For larger RVs with two or three units, you can cycle between them to give the units intermittent breaks. As a supplement, you can also use a camper dehumidifier to assist your air conditioner in removing moisture from the air inside your RV.
Most RV air conditioners last 6-8 years if maintained properly. The more diligent you are with service and maintenance, the longer you’ll be able to run your A/C.
Having a reliable power source is the most important factor for keeping your A/C running efficiently. This isn’t an issue when you’re plugged into 30 or 50-amp service, but you’ll be limited to your generator’s run time if you power your A/C using an appropriately sized RV generator.
How Do I Make My RV Air Conditioner Colder?
If your air conditioner isn’t lowering the temperature inside your RV to a comfortable level, here are a few things to try:
- Adjust your RV thermostat. It could be as simple as telling your air conditioner to make it colder inside your RV. Just know that the settings for best results in your RV will often differ from what you’re used to at home.
- Move to a more shaded location. Reducing your RV’s exposure to direct sunlight will make your A/C more effective because it won’t have to work as hard.
- Add insulation to windows and roof vents. This traps cool air inside instead of allowing it to escape.
- Clean and/or replace the air filter. Insufficient airflow reduces your air conditioner’s effectiveness.
- Clean the coils or fins. Clogged condenser or evaporator coils will also reduce A/C efficiency. These should be checked and cleaned at least annually, and some owners make it a seasonal maintenance item.
- Check your power supply. Insufficient power will cause your A/C to operate below its cooling capacity.
- Minimize the number of occupants. The more people you have inside, the harder your A/C has to work to cool things down.
- Cook outside. It’s easier if your RV features an outdoor kitchen, but it’s worth it.
- Shower in the bathhouse. Eliminates steam and condensation from hot water, unless you like cold showers.
- Minimize the use of appliances and electronics. Every appliance in your RV gives off heat when it’s on. Reducing electronic usage will make life easier for your RV air conditioning unit.
- Upgrade your RV air conditioner. In some cases, you may decide to replace your existing A/C with an upgraded model.
Read our tutorial on improving RV air conditioner efficiency.
Can You Add a Thermostat to an RV Air Conditioner?
Most A/C units have a built-in thermostat or are wired to a wall-mounted thermostat in your RV. Aftermarket residential thermostats rarely work with RV air conditioners, and while upgrade kits are available, they must be from the manufacturer and be designed specifically for your AC make and model.
These kits will likely require installing additional components to communicate properly with your AC. If your thermostat needs to be replaced, your best bet is to consult the owner’s manual and wiring diagrams for your model and contact your local service center.
When Do I Need a Professional RV AC Repair?
Most of the questions above are about how your AC works day to day. But sometimes the issue goes beyond basic operation. Consider scheduling a professional diagnostic if you notice:
- Your AC keeps tripping the breaker even though you’re connected to the right power service.
- The fan runs, but the air never actually gets cold — our guide on why your RV AC isn’t cooling walks through the most likely causes.
- You hear a new rattle, buzz, or grinding sound — see why your RV AC is making noise to help identify what it means.
- Water is dripping inside your RV instead of draining outside as normal — see why your RV AC is dripping water inside to help pinpoint the cause.
- It won’t turn back on at all after a power outage or a full reset attempt.
- Your A/C gets too cold and ices up frequently.
If any of these sound familiar, don’t keep running the unit. Operating a struggling AC can turn a minor issue into a more expensive repair. Camping World’s certified technicians can diagnose the issue and get your AC back to cooling.
Additional RV AC General FAQs
RV air conditioners typically range from 5,000 to 18,000 BTUs. Some larger units will run multiple units, and you can see the full range in the amp and wattage tables above. On the smaller end, portable and window-mounted units are common, since roof-mounted units rarely go below 13,500 BTU. Small portable and window-mounted AC units are great options for RVs without AC or for supplementing an existing RV air conditioner.
Most RV manufacturers list heights measured from the ground to the highest point, typically your air conditioner. Some will publish both measurements — with and without the A/C height. A potential exception would be if the base model doesn’t include an air conditioner, but one is available as an upgrade. In that case, the listed height may not include the air conditioner.
You can run your camper’s air conditioner while driving if you have a built-in generator and it’s running. You should NEVER run a portable generator while driving to power your air conditioner. If you’re riding in the cockpit, the dash AC should be enough to keep you and your navigator cool until you reach your destination.
Got any troubleshooting questions? Check out our RV Air Conditioner Troubleshooting Guide.
Do you have questions about RV air conditioners that we didn’t address? Let us know in the comments below.
Camping World’s RV air conditioner FAQ answered so many of my questions. Last year, our RV AC failed mid-trip, and we had no idea what to do. What’s your best tip for maintaining an RV unit on the road?
I’m looking to replace my GE air conditioner in my 2021 Keystone hideout it currently has a 3 wire GE thermostat .what compatible air conditioner can I replace that GE with and still use that thermostat. thank you
Hi Bill!
This article on considerations for choosing a replacement A/C unit might be more helpful: https://blog.campingworld.com/gear-and-accessories/choosing-an-rv-air-conditioner-unit/
Additionally, I’d recommend contacting one of our stores directly to speak with a Parts Specialist that can check inventory and/or order a compatible replacement unit for your Hideout. Here’s a link to find a location near you and their contact info: https://rv.campingworld.com/locations
I have a 2018 Berkshire 38a , my main lv room area ac unit tells me no heat signal and only blows air. Where is the reset button located pon my unit, please. Please
Hi Floyd!
Is there any identifying information on the interior control panel that would help us track down the AC make/model for further troubleshooting assistance?
I have recently acquired a 2017 MyPod by Little Guy. It has a Danby 5000 btu ac built into the front wall. On the left lower side of the wall there is a separate switch labelled “AC Fan.” What is this for? should I be turning it on when using the AC? When I turn it on, I can hear a fan running behind the wall.
Hi Jim,
I’m not familiar with this exact A/C system design. I’d recommend either reaching out to the manufacturer to learn more about how this system is set up. Danby also has a relatively comprehensive product resources page here: https://www.danby.com/en-us/product-resources/
If you know your A/C unit’s SKU, you can look for the owner’s manual there and find more information on its controls and proper operating procedures.
Hope that helps, but let me know if you have any follow up questions!
Hi Tucker . I own a 43′ fifth wheel with 50amps and 2 AC units. The camp ground that our camper will stay at for 6 months per year only has a 30 amp hook up . Can I use a generator to supplement the additional wattage I need ? How many gallons of propane will I need to keep the ac’s on at avg of 72 degrees daily for the 6 months .i already purchased a championship 8500 duel fuel generator from you -not sure if I need any adapter or how to properly use it. I am a newbie to the camping world
Hi Jay!
My apologies on the delayed reply, as I was awaiting thoughts from our technical service team. My first thought (and I apologize in advance for stating the obvious) is that the safest route is to consider relocating to a site that offers 50-amp service. But let’s dive a little deeper. Here are some thoughts from our technical team:
To answer your first question regarding supplementing additional wattage:
When operating your generator, you will be unplugging from your 30-amp shore power hook up and plugging directly into your generator to produce the power needed to operate both AC units. It is possible to rewire one AC unit to run strictly on generator power, but this option just would not be feasible.
To answer your second question regarding propane needs:
There are many variables to take into consideration. You would need to know things like average daily temps where you are staying. average total power usage per day, and average fuel consumption of generator while operating at required load.
Some bottom line thoughts:
– 30-amp service will operate 1 AC unit at a time
– Starting an AC unit early in the day before you need it will be more effective though out the day
– A campsite out of the direct sunlight will minimize the need
– Anything you can do to keep heat out such as window insulation will help
– Rotating usage of the AC units at different time of day will help cool the areas needed
– Using your generator only at peak heat hours of the day is recommended
– Always being cognizant of quiet time, and fire danger of operating a generator during the heat of the day.
And some thoughts on your specific generator model:
– The dBA rating is 74 at 23 feet. Depending on the campground, this may violate park Quiet Time rules.
– This generator will run twice as long on gasoline vs propane, reducing operating costs.
– This generator only offers two 30 amp outlets, and one of those is 240VAC. You will have to get creative and use a 120VAC 30 amp twist lock to 30 amp RV adapter “dogbone”, and then use a “Y” adapter from that dogbone and one of the 20 amp outlets to the 50 amp shore cord.
– While running both A/Cs, they will use about 50% of the continuous rating of this generator. At this load, it will run for 10 hours on gasoline or 5 hours on propane. Since the A/Cs don’t run 100% of the time, you may get an entire day out of 1 full tank (7.7 gallons) of gasoline. At $4 per gallon for premium, that is $35 per day if the A/Cs run 50% of the time on exclusive generator power. Since they probably won’t have to run both A/Cs 24 hours a day, they can reduce that cost to $9 per day for 8 hours or $17 per day for 12 hours of generator power. If using a 30 pound propane cylinder, the cost of operation in the same scenarios would be $54 at 50% A/C run time on exclusive generator power, $18 for 8 hours of generator power.
– All of the energy saving recommendations provided above would reduce the costs, but only actual use can pinpoint by just how much.
This is likely a lot to ponder, but I hope it’s helpful and please don’t hesitate to reach out with any follow up questions or contact our Technical Service hotline directly at 1-866-838-5304.
How can you safely test your ac in the winter time to make sure it is working? Outside high temp is 45°. Inside temp is 65.
Hi Kenny,
I’d like to better understand what you’d like to test. Are you just wanting to fire up your A/C to make sure it’s producing cool air? Or are you interested in testing temperature, air flow, and sound output?
I’ve seen folks use an anemometer (air speed) and a decibel meter to test their A/C’s operation in addition to a “feel test” to ensure it’s producing cold air. Let me know what exactly you’re wanting to test and I can hopefully provide further direction.
Thanks!
We have a 2009 Winnebago Vista 26P. The a/c was working fine at home and we drove to a campground an hour away and now it won’t cool. Campground checks all electric outlets and they were fine. We checked all breakers and fuses and they are all good. Is there a rest button somewhere for this a/c?
Hi, not sure if this helps but, I ran into that issue myself and found that if the a/c fan is not set to auto and the high speed fan is on, then the until won’t cycle the compressor on just causing air to blow from the high fan setting. That’s how I learned about both my G.E. a/c units. God bless
Hi Kim,
I reached out to our technical service team to get their thoughts. Here’s their reply:
Did it work when you got back home? There are many reasons that the power at the campground may have caused the problem: low voltage, reverse polarity, open ground, or even high voltage. Next time this happens, unplug the shore cord and try it with the onboard generator. If it works, the campground power is the issue. If nothing works at all since the trip, the outlet at the campground or an RV upstream could have been supplying 240VAC resulting in damage to the system. Did you leave the battery disconnects on while camping? The A/C system requires 12VDC for control power.
Let us know if you have any follow up questions!
I have an older Domitic (1993) forced air. On the inside of unit I remove the filter, then the plastic cover. There is the control box that has the wiring coming out of it. There is one with plug on it. Where does it plug in? Thanks.
Hi Mike!
Can you find a model number or any other identifying information on your unit?
With that, I can attempt to look through Dometic’s archived manuals to see if I can find the applicable one for your unit.
Jayco 195 2023
AC. Turn off them self . Ac stop all
And I can’t turn it on.
What should I do?
Hi Aimon,
Can you tell me a little more about the symptoms? Are any other electrical components impacted?
Have you checked all breakers and fuses on your RV’s circuit panel?
Your best bet may be to schedule an A/C diagnostic at your local service center: https://rv.campingworld.com/rv-service-maintenance#js-anchor-locations
Hi I have an Arctic Fox Silver 5th wheel and lately with the warmer weather we are having the single 13,500 btu unit is not quite up to it as well. The unit is pre-wired for a second unit in the bedroom which would take the place of the fantastic fan there. I have just started to look into doing this and it can be a bit confusing. I am handy enough to do this install myself as it’s pre-wired and the hole is already there. I’m trying to get my head wrapped around what I will need to purchase. I think I would need the compressor unit with cover for the exterior and just the control cover inside with it being vented only from that part of it, correct ? Only other thing would be the btu,’s needed for the second unit. I believe the area of this RV is 295 and I wouldn’t really need another 13,500 unit but maybe around 10,000 btu’s ? Also the next question is what brand or model should I be looking for and any advantage of looking at the heat pump style of unit, thanks in advance !
Will a ac unit and a heater unit from a 2008 Sunnybrook Bristol bay fit a 1997 travel supreme ??? Mine went out and they are parting out the 2008 ???
Hi Karen,
This is a tough one to answer. The short answer is probably, “I’d need more information on the makes of the specific appliances.” But I reached out to our technical service team to see if they had any thoughts. Here’s their reply:
In general, all manufacturers have many different models. They will have a chart on their respective webpages to show which components are compatible with one another. Be aware that most roof air conditioners are a three-part system: the roof unit, ceiling assembly, and thermostat and all must be properly matched. The prewiring in the coach must also match the set up. Even if all three are the same in both units, the 11 year separation will likely mean the revisions are incompatible.
You can also reach out to our renovation department to get their opinion or ask any follow up questions: https://rv.campingworld.com/rv-collision-renovation
Hi I have a fifth wheel I have been having trouble with my air conditioner in the front bed room it shut off when it 98 out side and when it get cooler at night it still sometime shuts off what could be wrong with it and how could I fix it
Hi Haylea,
Your best bet is to schedule an AC diagnostic at your nearest RV service center. Here’s where you can find the location that’s most convenient for you: https://rv.campingworld.com/rv-service-maintenance#js-anchor-locations
Hope that helps!
Great post! Air Conditioners truly bring a breath of fresh air to the world of mobile living. Your blog eloquently captures the significance of these cooling champions that turn caravans into comfortable sanctuaries even on the hottest days.
Hi David! We have a 2013 Tiffin Allegro Red with two roof top ACs (Coleman Mach 8). When connected to shore power, they work fine. When boondocking, they work fine using the generator. However; when we run them while driving using the generator, they cool for the first 10-15 miles, but then warm air starts blowing out. We’ve tried driving at slower speeds; we’ve tried only running one AC and closing doors in the rear of the coach. We start the engine, then generator, wait a few, then turn AC on to HI. We’ve taken it to a few places, but no one can figure out why. We are in 100 degree heat, so I don’t expect it to cool down drastically. Any suggestions?
Hi Jennifer,
Sorry for the delayed reply, but I wanted to reach out to our technical service team to get their thoughts. Here’s their reply:
We wish we could get our hands on it for a better look, but the system is pretty basic. You’ve already established that the shore power, generator power, and air conditioners work great when stationary, so it pretty much has to be related to airflow over the roof units. Things that come to mind are a speed induced vacuum or pressurization that starves the condenser fan and reduces or stops airflow across the outside coil. The same pressure anomalies could cause cooled discharge air to be forced into the return air plenum resulting in icing of the inside coil. The freeze probe in the inside coil might also sense temperatures below the cut off point due to this cold air infiltration which would result in the compressor shutting down.
You might benefit from scheduling an AC diagnostic at one of our service centers: https://rv.campingworld.com/rv-service-maintenance#js-anchor-locations
Hope that helps!
My Colman/ Mach AC unit runs great with my 3500 inverter or on my shore power 15 amp outlet. Recently my shore power breaker trips several times and eventually will start the AC. Also my inverter struggles to start the unit as well. I purchased my used trailer 3 years ago, it is 2011 Sprinter so I have no idea how old the AC unit is. Do I need to replace the unit or replace an internal part?
Hi Dave!
I’d have several follow up questions, but the easiest path is probably scheduling an appointment for an AC diagnostic: https://rv.campingworld.com/rv-service-maintenance
The techs will perform several tests to pinpoint the issue and recommend the best path forward.
Hope that’s helpful!
I am plugged into shore power but when the power went out during a storm my AC did not kick back on when the power came back and I lost the time on the microwave….does that mean my batteries are low or shot?
Hi Cindy,
It’s more likely that you popped a circuit breaker or blew a fuse when the power went out. Have you checked the breaker on the shore power source, as well as the breakers and fuses on your RV’s circuit panel?
Our AC units, the main one in particular, don’t seem to be cooling well in the triple digit temperatures here in Texas. Our 5th wheel is parked for the next two years with shade unavailable. Is this normal in extreme heat?
Hi Glen,
Yes, this is normal operation for what you are describing. Try starting your AC earlier in the day, run the fan speed on high, and verify even air flow from all vents (you can use an anemometer for this). The main unit may need servicing. From your description, we’re guessing that the main unit is in the main living area and the other unit is only cooling the bedroom? RV ACs are only expected to cool 20 degrees less that the ambient temp within the RV.
If yours continues to struggle, I’d schedule a service appointment: https://rv.campingworld.com/rv-service-maintenance
Let us know if you have any follow up questions!
When selecting a generator for your AC unit, compare the starting and running wattage to the generator’s capacity. Simply refer to the AC unit specifications to make an informed decision. In general, a 2,000 to 4,000-watt or higher generator should suffice for most RV AC units.
While RV is in storage or stored outside
Is it necessary Tory your AC from time to time?
We have a 2022 Coachmen Sportscoach and the a/c runs great on power but when we try to run it while traveling using the generator the a/c won’t run.
Hi Paul,
I ran your question by a few of our technicians and they’d have several follow up questions. They replied that a quick test would be to see if both breakers on the gen set are in the on position. They’d guess that a circuit breaker is popped on the generator not allowing it to provide power to that circuit, but it’s always hard to guess without all the facts.
Your safest bet is to schedule a service appointment for a general AC diagnostic: https://rv.campingworld.com/rv-service-maintenance
Let us know if you have any follow up questions!
Do I need to have my slides open to run air conditioner, I just cooling things down while getting ready to travel and cooling the Refrigerator.
Hi Richard!
Your slide-outs don’t need to be open for you to run your A/C. Hope that helps!
Hi Richard, we have a 28ft Pioneer it has a 13500 ac we can never get the temp below 79 it is very hot in this thing. Would a 15,000 btu make much of a difference? We only have 30 amp service in the RV
Hi Illona!
When is the last time you had your A/C inspected or serviced?
You may need to have our service team diagnose this issue, as an A/C that size in a unit of that length should be capable of cooling it below that temperature. Here’s the link to where you can contact our service team to schedule an appointment: https://rv.campingworld.com/rv-service-maintenance
I am having trouble with my 2023 Astoria FW. We have two a/c units (one in the main bedroom up front and one in the back bedroom) and have been running them for about 3 hours now. Both bedrooms are cool, but the living room/kitchen area in the middle of the rig is still soooo warm. Even with the I interior doors open so let the air flow through, the middle area will not cool down. All windows are closed and we have even tried opening the vent on the roof to see if that helps, but it is now working!
Hi Shelly!
It really should go back to the dealer for inspection and testing. It sounds like all of the airflow is going to the ends as it follows the path of least resistance. The dealer will be able to determine if the vents are in the correct locations, that there are the required number, and that there are no obstructions. It may be necessary to add additional vents or baffles to balance the airflow and by default, comfort zones.
Here’s where you can find the dealership nearest you: https://rv.campingworld.com/locations
Hope that helps, but let us know if you have any follow up questions!
My ac stopped working while battling the three didget heat wave here. Now it will not turn back on. I can hear it click as if it were going to come on but then it doesn’t and no air blowing out? Please help me, what is the problem?
Hi Kimberly,
Have you checked your fuses and breakers?
Your best bet is to contact your local Camping World Service Center to schedule an AC inspection: https://rv.campingworld.com/rv-service-maintenance
Let me know how it all works out!
I replaced a control box so that my turnstyle ac knobs are converted to thermostat controlled ac, propane furnace and heat strip. When testing, my newer Mach 3 Plus fan works on low and high but the ac won’t kick on. I ran a 30amp to 20 amp adapter to a 20 amp power cord and plugged in to 20amp plug at my rv storage area. No other electrical appliances were used during test. Any thoughts? Thanks much.
Hi Dave,
I reached out to our technical team and here’s their reply:
There are a bunch of conversion kits for various models and brands of A/C’s. Without specifics, it’s hard to say for sure, but it’s possible that one or more wires were not connected properly. Even if you followed the directions precisely, there may be a slight variation in his actual product from the instructions. Also, there may be DIP switches or terminal jumpers that are improperly configured.
Your best bet might be to schedule an AC diagnostic at one of our service centers: https://rv.campingworld.com/rv-service-maintenance#js-anchor-locations
But let me know if you have any follow up questions!
I have a new 5th wheel coach with 3 of the dometic low profile ACs
I recently noticed that if the power goes off, and back on, they don’t auto reset and come back on until you physically turn them on. Is there a setting or something to change this?
Thank You
Hi David!
There are quite a few logic control systems on the market that manufacturers are utilizing to control today’s systems, acting as the thermostat if you will. Most are all 12-volt DC controlled. This being said, as long as the 12-volt DC remains when the shore power goes away, this should not happen. I would first ensure that the RV’s DC batteries are turned on while using shore power, this way if the shore power goes away the DC logic control system can retain the AC programming. If all is good there, I would need more info on the particular logic control system or thermostats.
Hope that helps!