How To Dewinterize Your RV

Before you take your RV out of winter storage, it needs more than a quick walkaround and a propane refill. Properly dewinterizing your RV is what separates a smooth first trip from a costly surprise halfway to the campsite. From flushing antifreeze to checking safety systems, tires, and the exterior, this guide covers the complete winterization process for all RV types. Use the checklist at the end to confirm everything is done before you load up.

When Should You Dewinterize?

You can feel comfortable dewinterizing once nighttime temperatures in your area consistently stay above 40°F and no extended freeze events are forecast for the next 10 days. 

For most northern owners, that’s April or May; Mid-Atlantic and Midwest owners may be clear by late March or early April; southern owners can often dewinterize earlier. 

However, dewinterizing too early can create the same problems as not winterizing at all (or doing it incorrectly). You must be sure that an unpredictable late-season hard freeze won’t catch you unprepared.

Technician Tip: If you are dewinterizing for a trip, check the weather forecast for your destination and the entire route between your home and your destination to avoid freeze damage anywhere along the journey.

Step-by-Step Guide for Dewinterizing Your RV

Subscribe to the Camping World Tutorials YouTube channel and never miss a video.

If you winterized your RV yourself, the reverse process will feel familiar. But there are a few extra steps to help you get ready for the camping season.

Start with a Basic Inspection & Safety Checks

Do your basic RV inspection and safety system check early to allow time to schedule any necessary maintenance before your initial spring shakedown trip

Take time to inspect your fire safety systems. Ensure the carbon monoxide detector, smoke alarm, LP detector, and fire extinguishers are all in working order. Consult the manuals for each device for testing and inspection criteria.

Learn more about the RV safety equipment that protects you and your camper.

Service the Major RV Systems

Your next step is to inspect the major systems.

Electrical System

These basic electrical system checks can be performed without expensive tools. If you’re having any electrical issues, we highly recommend contacting an RV service center to have the system diagnosed.

  • Visually inspect battery connections. If the terminals are corroded, be sure the shore power is disconnected, and you wear safety goggles and protective gloves when cleaning them off.
  • Check fluid levels and charge RV batteries. Check the electrolyte levels and top up with distilled water before charging.
  • Check the generator air filter (if equipped) for nests and ensure it doesn’t need replacing.
  • Prime the generator (if equipped). Generator manufacturers recommend running the unit for a specific amount of time to warm up, and for a specific amount of time under load, even when it is not being used. This will keep oil in the top end to prevent dry starts and fresh fuel in the carburetor, pump, and fuel lines. Please perform this simple task to avoid fouling the carburetor and/or pump and dry rotting the fuel lines.
  • Run the generator to operating temperature, shut it off, and then check the oil level.
  • Test appliances on the electric setting.

Propane System

Here’s how to check your propane system when dewinterizing your RV:

  • Ensure all propane appliances are turned off (furnace, stove, oven, refrigerator, water heater).
  • With a flashlight, inspect the exterior burner, intake, and exhaust tubes for the water heater, refrigerator, furnace, and generator (if applicable). Remove debris from burner tubes and look for insect nests in the intake/exhaust tubes.
  • Inspect your propane lines to be sure the seals and hoses aren’t cracked.
  • Check propane levels. Refill your LP container(s) to 80% of full capacity.
  • If everything looks okay, fully open the valve on the container(s). You can check for leaks by using a soapy water solution around the valves and looking for bubbles.
  • If possible, test all propane appliances to the setpoint multiple times. Each appliance will cycle on and off based on thermostat settings. Allow them to run through a few cycles to be sure they will not fail on your first camping trip. Don’t just turn them on and presume they are fine after a few seconds.

Tires

Subscribe to the Camping World Tutorials YouTube channel and never miss a video.

If you’re dewinterizing your RV, don’t overlook your tires. They’re the foundation of your trailer or motorhome, and their condition is essential to ensuring your safety during the upcoming camping season. Here’s how to check your RV tire’s condition:

  • Inspect tires for cracks, cuts, scrapes, bulges, or bumps along the sidewall. Anything suspicious warrants a trip to your service center for a professional opinion.
  • Check the date code on all tires. Replace any that exceed the 5-7 year maximum age recommendation. Shops report an average tire blowout repair bill of $4,700. It isn’t worth the risk to try to squeeze a little more time out of expiring tires.
  • Check RV tires for proper inflation when they are cold. Cold means they have been sitting for at least three hours. Don’t forget the spare.
  • Inflate tires to the recommended tire pressure (PSI) from your RV’s manufacturer rather than the tire manufacturer, as that recommendation is based on your camper’s weight and cargo carrying capacity (CCC).
  • Check tread depth for each tire. A minimum of 4/32″ is recommended for safe RV travel. Tires with tread depth under 4/32″ will provide poor traction in rain, snow, mud, or other slippery conditions.
  • Repack RV wheel bearings. This should be done annually and will require installing new wheel bearing seals. Always use a torque wrench to ensure the lug nuts are tightened to the manufacturer’s specifications.

If you need replacement RV tires, set up a service appointment well in advance of your first trip.

Technician Tip: The checks above will help you perform a basic walkthrough of your RV each spring. But even if each appliance and system appears to function, it may not be performing at its best. Your 12-volt DC and 120-volt AC electrical systems, LP gas system, and RV water system should be professionally tested before each new season of use. These tests are complex and require specialized tools, and they are NOT a DIY task. Camping World often offers specials on these important preseason tests.

Dewinterize Your Fresh Water System and Holding Tanks

If you used non-toxic RV antifreeze to winterize your fresh water system, follow these steps to drain and flush it before using the water system — the sequence matters.

  1. Close the low-point drains and/or reinstall the caps if they were removed during winterization.
  2. Repressurize the water system using a city water connection or by filling the fresh water tank and turning on the water pump.
  3. Open faucets, showerheads (indoor and outdoor), and the toilet to flush antifreeze out of the system. Run each fixture until the water flows completely clear with no pink tint and no sweet smell. Don’t forget exterior faucets, outdoor showers, and any outdoor kitchen connections.
  4. Turn off the water pressure, open the low-point drains, and briefly turn the water pressure back on to flush any remaining antifreeze from the low-point lines. Then turn off the water pressure and close the low-point drains.
  5. For tank-style water heaters, consider using a flushing wand (if available) to flush out sediment, critters, or antifreeze that may be in the tank. Then, reinstall the anode rod or drain plug (see the water heater section below before continuing).
  6. Now return the water heater bypass to the normal/use position (if you have a tank-style heater). Open the hot and cold valves to fill the tank. Only do this after the antifreeze flush is complete. If you have a tankless water heater, it’s a great time to perform a descaling service to dissolve hard water deposits and flush them out.
  7. Open a hot water faucet until water flows steadily and air is fully purged, confirming that the water heater tank is full. Do not turn the water heater on until this step is complete. Running a dry tank, even briefly, can damage the heating element and other components.
  8. With the system pressurized, inspect all accessible water lines, fittings, and connections for leaks. Check under sinks, behind the water heater access panel, and at any visible plumbing connections. If you notice any drips or moisture, immediately de-pressurize the system and have it professionally inspected before operating the RV.
  9. With water in the fresh tank, disconnect the city water hose, turn on the water pump, and inspect the city water inlet connection to ensure the check valve isn’t damaged and leaking. Test all valves, including faucets, the outside shower, and the toilet.
  10. Add 3-5 gallons of water and your favorite toilet chemical to the black tank so it is ready to go before you use it.
  11. Sanitize the fresh water system.

Note on Returning Your Water Heater to Service

Before continuing with the flush sequence:

If your RV has a Suburban® water heater, it uses an aluminum or magnesium anode rod that should be inspected each season. If more than half of the rod has corroded away, replace it before the new season. The rod protects the tank from corrosion, and a heavily depleted rod leaves the tank unprotected. 

Atwood® and Dometic® water heaters use a stainless steel tank and do not use an anode rod; reinstall the drain plug instead.

Always confirm the tank is full before turning the water heater on. Open a hot water faucet and wait for a steady, air-free flow before powering the unit. Running a dry heating element, even briefly, can destroy it.

Technician Tip: Tankless water heaters don’t have a large reservoir or anode rod. Some manufacturers recommend bypassing them for winter; others recommend filling the heat exchanger and small mixing reservoir with RV-safe antifreeze. Just like it’s essential to follow the manufacturer’s exact recommendations for winterizing, the same is true for dewinterizing. Learn more in our guide to winterizing an RV tankless water heater.

Inspect and Wash the RV’s Exterior

Man carrying RV wash and wax and a sponge
Image by Camping World

Now it’s time to inspect the exterior before giving it a thorough cleaning. Here’s a checklist:

  • Perform a thorough RV walkaround. Check the condition of the windows, window seals, paint, latches, doors, door seals, compartments, and all exterior components.
  • Climb up safely and inspect the roof. Look at seams along the edges and around all roof vents, antennas, A/C units, etc.
  • If you find any cracks in the caulking or missing sealant on the roof as well as around doors, windows, and screw rails, remove the old sealant and replace it. Use self-leveling sealant on the roof and 100% silicone on the sides.
  • Wash your RV from the roof to the tires using a soft-bristled brush and an RV-friendly exterior cleaner. Don’t forget the awnings. They are exposed to all weather conditions and rarely see sunlight on their underside, making them prone to mildew. Use an RV cleaner for black streaks that have formed if your RV was left uncovered.
  • Rinse well and dry completely. Leave RV awnings extended for a few hours to dry fully before retracting. Use a soft towel to dry windows to prevent spots.

Inspect Interior and Restock RV Essentials

These interior RV checks will help you avoid uncomfortable surprises on your first trip:

  • Thoroughly clean the interior from ceiling to floor, using only RV-safe interior cleaning products.
  • Drain dehumidifiers (or replace disposables), if applicable.
  • Check inside cabinets and under sinks for signs of pests or rodents. If you discover signs, find the source and use insect and rodent-repellent solutions before adding any new food items to the pantry.
  • Check the water filtration system and install new filter media. Never reuse filters from a previous season, as they may have been contaminated.
  • Restock your RV essentials.

Technician Tip: Never mix chemicals, such as chlorine and ammonia, as they can create toxic fumes or damage surfaces. Always open all windows and vents when deep-cleaning to ensure adequate ventilation.

RV Dewinterization Checklist

diy-maintenance-where-to-get-your-rv-inspected-06-2023
Image by Camping World

Once you’ve worked through the steps above, use this quick-reference checklist to confirm everything is done before your first trip of the season.

Safety & Systems

  • Smoke alarm, CO detector, LP detector, and fire extinguisher tested
  • Electrical system inspected: battery connections, charge level, generator primed, and oil checked
  • Propane system inspected: lines, appliances tested through full cycles, burner tubes clear of nests and debris
  • Tires inflated to manufacturer spec; tread depth and sidewalls inspected
  • Check lug torque and ensure tires don’t exceed the 5-7 year date recommendation

Water System

  • Low-point drain caps reinstalled
  • Anode rod reinstalled and inspected (replace if more than half corroded); Dometic®/Atwood® units: drain plug reinstalled
  • Water heater bypass kept in bypass position during flush
  • Antifreeze flushed out of all interior and exterior fixtures until water runs clear with no pink tint or sweet smell
  • Low-point drains flushed and recapped
  • Water heater bypass returned to normal/use position after flush is complete
  • Hot water faucet opened until water flows steadily — water heater tank confirmed full
  • Water heater turned on only after the tank was confirmed full
  • All accessible lines and fittings were inspected for leaks while pressurized
  • Fresh water system sanitized with bleach solution (4–12 hour dwell time)
  • Water filters replaced (never reuse from previous season)
  • Water pump and city water connection tested
  • Toilet chemical and 3-5 gallons of water are added to the black tank

Interior

  • Interior cleaned; cabinets and under-sink areas checked for pests and signs of water infiltration
  • Dehumidifiers emptied or replaced
  • Camping supplies inventoried and restocked

Exterior

  • Full walkaround completed: seals, windows, latches, doors, and compartments inspected
  • Roof inspected; sealant checked and repaired where needed
  • RV washed from roof to tires; awnings cleaned and fully dried before retracting

Don’t Want to Dewinterize Your RV Yourself?

A thorough dewinterization before your first trip of the season is what protects your RV and your peace of mind on the road. But if you don’t have time to dewinterize your RV this spring, or if your rig has systems you’re not comfortable inspecting yourself, reach out to your local Camping World Service Center. Our trained technicians can handle the full spring startup process.

Frequently Asked Questions

How long does it take to dewinterize an RV?

Owners focusing only on the water system can often complete the flush in 1-2 hours, but the sanitization dwell time still applies. The time required for the remaining system checks — safety, electrical, propane, interior, and exterior — will depend on your familiarity with your system, your RV’s size, condition, and other factors. In my experience, it’s best to budget for a full afternoon so you aren’t rushing this process.

Do I need to sanitize my RV water system every spring?

RV water systems should be sanitized at least annually, and spring is the perfect time to do it before the camping season. Even with non-toxic RV antifreeze in the system all winter, bacteria and biofilm can develop. Sanitizing with a diluted bleach solution ensures the water system is safe for drinking and cooking before your first use of the season. Skipping sanitization and drinking tap water from an unsanitized system is a genuine health risk, not just a maintenance nicety.

How do I dewinterize an RV with a tankless water heater?

The key difference when dewinterizing an RV with a tankless water heater is whether the water heater manufacturer recommends adding antifreeze to the heater or bypassing it. Always refer to your manufacturer’s instructions. What was done during winterization determines what’s needed at dewinterization.

What extra dewinterization steps should I take if I have an ice maker in my fridge?

You really can’t flush the antifreeze out of this system. Follow your manufacturer’s directions, but most will have you turn on the ice maker after winterization and throw away the first 4 trays of ice that drop. Inspect the next tray to verify there is no pink coloration or sweet odor to the ice.


For a refresher on the winterization process, learn how to winterize an RV.

Do you have any questions about dewinterizing your RV? Leave a comment below!

Author

  • Tucker Ballister headshot

    Tucker Ballister is our Content Strategist. He grew up RV camping in a Fleetwood Bounder with his parents and has lived and camped in two motorhomes and two travel trailers of his own. His current RV is a 2025 Forest River Campsite Ultra 26BW, which he loves taking on adventures with his wonderful partner and furry companion from their home base in Western North Carolina. Check out his adventures, gear reviews, and outdoor advice at thebackpackguide.com.

    View all posts
  • Comment (11)
  • Billie says:

    Where is the hot water heater by pass valve located in a 2024 Mallard 210rb?

    • The bypass valve should be located on the cold water inlet of your water heater. But depending on the plumbing design in your unit, you have multiple valves on the plumbing entering and exiting your water heater (usually one on the cold water inlet and one on the hot water outlet).

      Let us know if you have any follow up questions!

  • Jimmy Parker says:

    How do you hook up your 50 Amp to a regular house plug (120)

    • Hi Jimmy,

      You’ll need the appropriate power adapter, but you should be cautious that you won’t enjoy full use of a 50 amp RV as intended when plugged into a 120-volt AC outlet, just like you wouldn’t if using an adapter to connect to a 30-amp outlet. This means restricting the use of high-draw appliances like your air conditioner and microwave.

      That said, here’s a link to help you search for a compatible RV power adapter.

      Let us know if you have any follow up questions!

  • Marsy says:

    How much does it cost for Camping World to dewinterize your travel trailer?

  • Wise Arse says:

    No shower since 7/5/21? Wow, glad I am not around you! Please stay down wind.

  • George says:

    The video is not quite chronologically correct. You’ll want to flush all the anti-freeze through the faucets “before” turning the by-pass valves to regular use otherwise you end up with a bunch of anti-freeze in the hot water tank.

  • Graca says:

    10 mins after my hot shower i turned on the hot water in my bathroom sink and no water came out!! But i have cold flow on cold side!! We have checked the bypass valves they are closed, we have drained water heater and refilled, water enters the tank of the water heater but idk if its flowing out cuz no water will come from any faucet in the camper!! Please help its been 2 days and i really want a warm shower

  • Hi George!

    You are indeed correct on that order. The water heater bypass valves should remain closed until the pink RV antifreeze has been rinsed out.

    Thanks for noting that!

  • Anonymous says:

    Check for a blocked shower head.

Leave Your Comment

Shop By RV Type

Your Adventure Awaits

Join our email list and stay up-to-date on the latest news, product innovations, events, promotions, and lots of other fun updates.
This field is for validation purposes and should be left unchanged.
By checking this box, you expressly authorize Camping World to send you recurring automated promotional marketing text messages (e.g. cart reminders) to the telephone number entered, which you certify is your own. Consent is not a condition of purchase. Reply HELP for help and STOP to cancel. Msg. frequency varies. Msg. & data rates apply. View Terms & Privacy.
By checking this box, you expressly authorize Camping World to send you recurring automated promotional marketing text messages (e.g. cart reminders) to the telephone number entered, which you certify is your own. Consent is not a condition of purchase. Reply HELP for help and STOP to cancel. Msg. frequency varies. Msg. & data rates apply. View Terms & Privacy.

The information provided in this blog is for general informational purposes only and not intended to take the place of professional service providers. While we strive to provide accurate and up-to-date information, we make no representations or warranties of any kind, about the completeness, accuracy, reliability, suitability, or availability with respect to the information, products, services, or advice contained on the blog for any purpose. Any reliance you place on such information is therefore strictly at your own risk. In no event will we be liable for any loss or damage including without limitation, indirect or consequential loss or damage, or any loss or damage whatsoever arising from loss of data or profits arising out of, or in connection with, the use of this blog.

Scroll to Top