Troubleshooting RV Converters and RV Inverters

Contributor

Tucker Ballister

Favorite Trip

5 Months Solo on the Road

Home Base

Hendersonville, NC

Favorite RV

2008 Fleetwood Bounder

About Contributor

Tucker Ballister is our Content Strategist. He’s a lover of the open road and the proud owner of a 2021 Sunlite Classic travel trailer (his 3rd RV to date). Check out more of his RV adventures, gear reviews, and outdoor advice at thebackpackguide.com.

RV converters and RV inverters are essential to supply the correct type of electricity to your RV appliances. The video above helps explain why these two devices are essential and where to find them in your RV. But here’s a written breakdown.

What is an RV Converter?

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Photo by Camping World

When you hook your RV up to 30 or 50-amp shore power, that power comes into your RV as alternating current (AC). An RV converter changes that 120-volt AC to 12-volt direct current (DC), allowing you to use appliances that require DC and charge your RV battery simultaneously. Your converter will typically be found next to your RV’s fuse box and breakers.

What Happens When the RV Converter Goes Bad?

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Photo by Camping World

When it goes bad, your converter will give you one of three main warning signs. These can vary depending on make and model, but you’ll typically see one of three things when your RV converter goes bad: 

  • Onboard batteries won’t hold a charge. This could be a bad battery or a bad converter, so further testing is required.
  • Interior lights aren’t as bright as normal. 
  • Vent fans are spinning slowly. 

Both of these final points can be signs that these small RV appliances aren’t getting enough power.  

How to Troubleshoot RV Converters

Testing an RV converter is a delicate process that must be completed in the correct sequence. Consult your owner’s manual for specific testing instructions from the manufacturer, as the exact voltages and recommended testing sequence may vary from model to model.

But these quick tests will help you test most RV power converters: 

Test your Coach Battery

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Photo by Camping World
  1. Disconnect from all power sources.
  2. Turn off the engine, generator, and inverter.
  3. Connect a voltage meter to battery terminals to test.
  4. Set your voltage meter to the Volts DC setting.
  5. Your battery should maintain a consistent charge between 12.3 and 12.9 volts DC.
  6. If you get a reading below 12.3 volts DC, recharge the battery until you get a reading between 12.3 and 12.9 volts DC.
  7. Then wait 2-3 hours and re-test.
  8. If your battery isn’t holding a charge, it needs to be replaced.

Test your Converter’s Output Voltage

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Photo by Camping World
  1. Disconnect battery cables from the coach battery.
  2. Plug your RV into a reliable AC power source.
  3. Set your volt meter to the Volts DC setting.
  4. Place the meter’s probes on the disconnected battery cables.
    1. Red probe to the positive battery wire.
    2. Black probe to the negative battery wire.
    3. Ensure good connections to the cables.
  5. Voltage should read between 13.6 and 14.4 volts DC if the converter functions correctly.
  6. If the output voltage reads 0.0 volts DC or the battery isn’t charging:
    1. If equipped, ensure the battery disconnect switch is in the normal use position.
    2. Check for an open inline fuse in the battery wire circuit.
    3. Check for loose wiring connections.

Check for a Reverse Battery Hookup (if no DC output comes from your converter)

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Photo by Camping World
  1. Check the reverse polarity fuses on your RV’s fuse board.
  2. Visually inspect them for breaks in the fuse element.
  3. If no breaks are found, use a continuity tester to test for continuity.
  4. If you find blown fuses, it’s a sign that your RV battery was connected in reverse.
    1. This could be the case at the battery or the converter.
    2. Check the cables at both locations and reconnect them properly.
    3. Replace the blown fuse with a fuse of the same type and Amperage rating as the original.  

If no blown fuses are found, the connections to the battery and/or converter aren’t reversed, and you’re still getting an output voltage of 0.0 volts DC, contact the manufacturer or your nearest Camping World Service Center for further troubleshooting assistance.

Some RV converters are also equipped with an AC reverse polarity protection feature. If the AC neutral wire and the lead wire coming into your converter are connected backward, it triggers this protection feature and shuts your converter down.

Some converters may have an audible alarm that sounds when the AC wires aren’t connected properly. If your converter is equipped, the alarm will continue to sound until the wires are appropriately reconnected.

Will an RV Converter Work Without a Battery?

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Photo by Camping World

If your RV is unplugged and your battery dies, you’ll be without power in your coach. Using your RV without a battery isn’t recommended, as the 12-volt components inside often draw more amperage than your converter can supply.

Your battery is essential for providing the power to operate these components safely. If your RV is plugged in and the battery is disconnected, some small electronics, such as RV lights, may work off the converter alone. But maintaining a healthy battery in your RV is essential to safe RV use.

If you do need to disconnect your battery for any reason, power off all 12 volt appliances inside. Then consult your owner’s manual for the proper disconnection and replacement procedures.

What Does an Inverter Do in an RV?

If you’re dry camping or boondocking and not using a generator, installing an RV inverter is a good idea if your RV didn’t come with one pre-installed. RV inverters change DC to AC, but you’ll need to consult your owner’s manual for specifications on what type of inverter suits your RV and the appliances you want to power.

How to Test an RV Inverter

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Photo by Camping World

Use this sequence to test if your RV’s inverter is functioning correctly:

  1. Disconnect from shore power and other power sources (like an RV generator).
  2. Turn on appliances powered by the inverter one at a time.
    1. If an appliance is working, turn it off before testing another appliance.
  3. After checking appliances, plug a small accessory into any outlets powered by the inverter to test them.

Most RV inverters only operate one or two circuits of your RV’s electrical system. Some high-end luxury RVs offer the ability to invert all circuits using multiple inverters. But most RV inverters power specific outlets or appliances, such as your refrigerator, microwave, or television.

Your owner’s manual will tell you which outlets or appliances should be powered by your inverter. But if you’re having trouble locating that information, contact your RV’s manufacturer.

If all the appliances and outlets on the inverter’s circuits are working properly, your inverter is doing its job. But further troubleshooting is required if you encounter a lack of power at any outlet or appliance.

How to Troubleshoot RV Inverters

Different symptoms will call for different RV inverter troubleshooting procedures. Because there are various inverter makes and models out there, your owner’s manual is your best resource for specific troubleshooting procedures.

That being said, here are some general troubleshooting tips for RV inverters: 

Check for Adequate DC Power Supply

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Photo by Camping World
  1. Most RV power inverters are equipped with a status light.
  2. If the status light is off, you usually have one or two problems:
    1. The inverter is switched Off.
    2. There’s no DC voltage connected to the inverter.
  3. To remedy:
    1. Switch the inverter On.
    2. Connect a battery with the correct voltage.

A healthy RV battery should have a voltage above 12.5 volts DC. If the voltage is between 12.5 and 10 volts DC, your battery may be wearing out, but it may just need to be charged. Charge it until you get a reading of about 12.5 volts DC and wait 2-3 hours before retesting.

If the voltage is below 10 volts DC on the initial test, your battery may be bad, but it may also need to be recharged. If there’s a continuous draw on the battery, such as a light that was left on, it could draw the battery below 10 volts DC. While this may shorten the battery’s life, it doesn’t mean you have a bad battery.

Please refer to our guide on troubleshooting RV batteries and lights for tips on ensuring your RV is equipped with healthy coach and engine batteries. And if you have determined you have a battery, you’ll need to replace your RV battery before further testing.

Test Incoming AC Voltage

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Photo by Camping World
  1. Some units are equipped with a dropout setting if the incoming AC voltage is lower than the programmed threshold (80 volts AC is standard on many units.)
  2. To test:
    1. Set volt meter to the volts AC setting.
    2. Connect meter probes to AC neutral and lead wires.
      1. Red probe to lead wire.
      2. Black probe to neutral wire.
    3. Ensure voltage is present and above your inverter’s volts AC dropout level.

If it is below the minimum threshold, you have an inadequate shore power source that could damage your RV’s electrical system. You should already be utilizing a surge protector to protect your RV, but disconnect immediately if you find low voltage.

Check Circuit Breakers and Fuses

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Photo by Camping World
  1. Turn off any and all appliances/devices that aren’t functioning properly.
  2. Locate your RV’s electrical panel (consulting your owner’s manual may be necessary).
  3. Identify the breaker that serves the malfunctioning device/appliance.
    1. The chart on the inside of the panel door should indicate which breakers serve which parts of your RV.
  4. Note the position of the breaker’s handle. If it’s tripped, it’ll be positioned somewhere between the On and Off positions.
  5. To reset, push the handle to the Off position before returning it to the On position.
  6. Turn the malfunctioning device/appliance on to test.
    1. Leave it on for 30-60 seconds to confirm it’s working properly.

If your breaker trips again or is repeatedly doing so, there are two possibilities: a defective breaker or the appliance is drawing too much battery power. In either case, consult an RV service technician for advice on your best course of action.  

Examine the Cooling Fan

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Photo by Camping World
  1. If no issues are present with your battery, incoming AC shore power source, circuit breakers, or fuses, your inverter’s cooling fan could be the culprit.
  2. The fan should cycle on and off periodically when your inverter is in use.
    1. Listen for the fan to cycle to ensure it’s functioning properly.
    2. Heat buildup can melt or damage critical inverter components if it doesn’t.
  3. To check:
    1. Visually inspect your inverter for melted parts or other deformities.
    2. Ensure there’s plenty of open space around the inverter to allow airflow.

Working with electrical systems on recreational vehicles can be tricky. While they’re not overly complicated, minor errors when troubleshooting can damage sensitive appliances. Sometimes, you’re better off scheduling an appointment at your nearest Camping World Service center.


And if you’re still learning the ins and outs of RV maintenance, check out our downloadable RV ownership and maintenance booklet!

But if you want to enjoy the RV lifestyle without worrying about RV maintenance, consider renting an RV for your next adventure.

What additional questions or comments do you have about RV converters and inverters? Leave them in the comments below!

  • Comment (54)
  • Chris says:

    Hello,
    I let my battery in my 2007 palomino maverick 3000sl go dead. I plugged back in and now my inverter is making a screech sound. It also doesn’t appear to be putting out any voltage to the battery!
    Any suggestions
    Chris

  • David May says:

    HI! I have a Salem FSX trailer. I just took it our for the first time this year. When plugged into shore power, the A/C, the microwave and all the outlets work fine. The fridge, the awning and the lights don’t. It seems that they will only run off of the battery and of course the fridge drains the battery in about 10 minutes. I don’t think the converter is working at all. I’ve checked the fuses and breakers (all good) and checked the voltage at the battery (0 volts) and it’s not charging the battery. Is there another test or maybe a reset procedure that I’m unaware of?

    • Hi David,

      What is the exact model/floorplan of your Salem FSX. Because there’s variety, it’s hard to say for sure, but I reached out to our Technical Service team and here are their thoughts:

      There is a battery disconnect switch that must be on at all times unless the RV is in long term storage and unplugged during that time. This switch is probably a 3″x3″ white plastic plate with 4 black screws holding it to the front frame crossmember, right behind the battery box. There will be a round, black socket in the middle of the white plate and a removable red plastic key in the socket. The white plate will be clearly engraved “battery disconnect” and will show the positions for on and off.

      These RVs usually have a combination 120vac breaker panel and 12vdc fuse panel. The converter that charges the battery is integrated into the bottom of this device, but you’ll never have to gain access to it since it is fully automatic, and the breaker and fuse are on the panel above it. Testing is simple…ensure the RV is unplugged and test the DC voltage at the converter fuse on each side of the fuse. If the fuse is good, it will read the same on both sides. You can also remove the fuse and check it with an ohmmeter for at or near zero ohms of resistance. A reading of O.L. or more than a few ohms means the fuse is bad.

      Now, plug in the RV and test again at the fuse. If the voltage reads at least .5vdc higher than before the converter is working. If there is no change, test the voltage from the AC breaker to the converter to verify it is getting the AC power it requires.

      If all is working well, locate the battery disconnect switch and verify it is actually on. Verify that all of the battery cables are connected to the battery and that the polarity is correct. Many of these RVs were equipped with some kind of solar prep. These solar prep wires are sometimes confused with the RVs low voltage system cables and may not be connected or may not be connected properly.

      Double check to be sure. If everything is working properly, the voltage at the battery should be very close to the voltage at the converter fuse.
      This RV probably has an Everchill 12vdc compressor driven refrigerator according to the manufacturer’s current offerings. A fully charged battery should easily run this unit for 1-3 days depending upon battery size, age, and customer usage patterns. The LED interior lighting should run for days on a fully charged battery as well.

      If the battery was at 0vdc in 10 minutes, it was likely never charged up. Even the charge line from the tow vehicle requires the battery disconnect switch to be on to get the charge power to the battery. Because of all of the symptoms, the battery disconnect switch is the top suspect, followed by the wiring and polarity at the battery itself.

      One last outlier is the tow vehicle’s charge line circuit. If that fuse is missing or blown in the tow vehicle, and the battery was run down to 0vdc, the smart charger circuitry in the converter wouldn’t even know there was a battery to be charged so it wouldn’t try. This may not be likely, but it is possible.

      Hope this helps, but let us know if you have any follow up questions!

  • Jody pritchard says:

    2023 Keystone Cougar electricity in park was out for 6 hours when it came back on 3 outlets not working one says solar flex HELP

    • Hi Jody,

      When you say power was out, do you mean that it was out on the park’s side (i.e., shore power)?

      Are you using a surge protector when plugging into shore power?
      Have you checked all breakers, fuses, and GFCI outlet resets?

      Let us know, and we’ll be happy to provide additional info as we can. Thanks!

  • morgan says:

    so me and the wife are new to the camping world, we purchased a 2022 voltage 3915 5th wheel. well, we took it out camping and the water was accidently hooked into the flush line and left on for roughly 30 mins. we noticed water coming out from the camper on to the ground. at that time, we shut off the water and went in to investigate the issue. at that ti9me we noticed the wife’s hair straighter that was plugged in the bathroom was on the ground and when it got wet tripped the circuit in the bathroom. long story short we turn the power back on and it only powers have the rv from shoreline power. I unplug shoreline power and turn on the rv batteries and it powers the entire camper like normal. does anyone have answer as to why and what i can do to fix it?

    • Hi Morgan,

      Our apologies for the delay, but I wanted to reach out to our technical service team for their input. Here’s their response:

      We could really use some more detail to clarify, but this unit probably has an inverter and a generator. If it has a generator, it must be started, after which the automatic transfer switch will kick over to it for power. If the generator is not on or isn’t an option in your unit, shore power sends 120vac power to the outlets. All of your lighting is 12vdc battery powered.

      If shore power is not connected, the inverter will come on (may come on automatically or may have to be switched on) and supply 120vac power to some of the outlets. There are probably 2 battery disconnects in this RV, one that sends 12vdc power from the batteries to the fuse panel for lights, furnace, and appliance control power. The other disconnect switch, if present, is from the batteries to the inverter. The inverter changes 12vdc battery power into 120vac power for some of the outlets.

      In most of these set ups, the only way to have full use of the 120vac system is to be on shore or generator power. The inverter is not big enough to run the entire house, so usually the TV, bathroom, and maybe a kitchen outlet. If you have a residential fridge, it will also run that. In all cases, the battery disconnects must be left on at all times except while the RV is in storage for the winter.

      The batteries cannot recharge while plugged in, the generator will die after awhile, and the lights may run dimly if the battery disconnect switches are off. There are breakers and fuses in the main distribution panel, the inverter, the converter and the generator. All should be carefully inspected to ensure they are reset and in good order since the arc event you experienced may have tripped one you haven’t checked.

      Hope that helps!

  • Ok ? I gut a lad light you can’t change the build in it it’s just straight a led light . It is 100 – 120V & is 28w . What transformer do I need to buy to hook it up on this 15V system ?

    • Hi There!

      I’m not sure I quite understand your question. I’d recommend reaching out to our service team at your local Camping World to discuss the issue in greater detail. Here’s a link to help you find the location nearest you: https://rv.campingworld.com/rv-service-maintenance

      • Bailey says:

        Hi Tucker, We recently had a few power surges in our Rv. Blew my fireplace, washer and dryer, converter, and GCFi, however we replaced the converter 3 times since that has happened, We own A 2023 puma 39dbt. We’ve had 2 separate rv techs come out and the problem seems to be fixed for a day or two and another problem arises and adds to the mix. We are currently experiencing a draining of our battery while running the furnace, using the usb plug in ports, and the bathroom fans. The light on my converter itself is green, however the indicator light has went out and we just replaced our converter yesterday. The lights flicker when I run the furnace, or the bathroom vent, and use the USB port on the wall. I’m at my whitts end with all of this and don’t know what’s going on, the rv guys changed out my shore cord outlet, and replaced the gcfi also, we replaced the shore cord and also installed a power watch dog epo . anything will help at this point! Thanks.

        • Hi Bailey,

          With a surge like this, it tends to further weaken any weak spots within the system. A master tech would be able to search out any weak ground or neutral connections. A surge creates heat, excessive heat in a connection weakens that connection and in the RV there are many possible connections to check.

          Here are a few questions my technical team asked:

          Are they still plugged in to the same shore power connection?
          Has anyone thoroughly tested the pedestal output for Hz, Vac, polarity, and monitored with a tracker for surges?
          Has anyone conducted the (5) 120Vac tests on the RV; safety ground conductor test, hot skin test, GFCI test at all outlets, voltage test at all outlets, and polarity test at all outlets?
          Has anyone load tested and digitally tested the battery or checked the water level in it?
          Has anyone tested the ground lugs throughout the 12Vdc system?
          Is there a transfer switch, share switch, inverter, or EMS anywhere in the RV and if so, has anyone thoroughly tested them?

          The erratic behaviors described are all 12Vdc dependent. The original surge from the 120Vac system clearly caused undiscovered damage to the 12Vdc side. Changing obviously failed parts only to have them immediately fail again without resolving the performance issues or locating the actual cause tells us there is damage that must be located and repaired before any more parts are thrown at symptoms. The battery, ground busses and lugs, and DC wiring that may have been melted together causing cross-over voltages and signals are the most likely culprits. Damaged distribution, share, transfer, and energy management components are the next most likely.

          At the end of the day, this RV must be placed on a known good 120Vac supply in a shop so a (preferably) Master Certified Technician who specializes in electrical diagnostics can run every inch of wiring and test every single electrical component. It will take a couple of days and it will be expensive, but it is the only correct course of action now.

          Since the original issue was a power surge, you may be able to seek financial relief by filing an insurance claim. Given that the final bill is likely to far exceed the deductible this may offer the lowest out of pocket cost. They may even be able to include the repairs already made on the claim. One of our expert insurance advisors at CW can help them with this.

          By this point, there are likely multiple issues going on, which makes accurate diagnostics extremely difficult. This is not the job for an average tech, only the most experienced will do.

          So, we’d strongly recommend contacting the service center in your area to speak with our team of service and insurance advisors. Here’s where you can find a link to locate the closest service center to you: https://rv.campingworld.com/rv-service-maintenance#js-anchor-locations

          • Gino Brancato says:

            Hi my issue with my inverter is when it is on and my light says inverting on my control screen it kicks back to standby every 5 seconds or so. It just goes back and forth over and over between standby and inverting. When inverting my tv kicks on so it appears to be working for that slight time until it goes back to standby. Any ideas on what’s causing this issue?

          • Hi Gino,

            Can you clarify your use case? Are you connected to shore power or not? How about a portable generator? Are you using your inverter for boondocking?

            Some will revert to standby mode due to low battery voltage, but if you can provide a bit more info I’ll be happy to pass this along to our technical service team to get a more thorough answer.

  • John says:

    Half of my Rv goes out when I change the temperature control on the fireplace. After an hour or so the lights will come back on. I have to turn the the fireplace on. It will work until I change the temperature ????‍♀️????‍♀️????‍♀️. What could be the problem?

  • Chance says:

    my 2016 heritage glen fifth wheel has a draw down on power when the heater tries to kick on and will not ignite and all the lights go dim

    • Hi Chance!

      I reached out to our technical service team and here’s their reply:

      This sounds as though the main blower motor on the furnace is drawing excessive amperage for some reason. This explains the dimming lights. The furnace will not go for ignition if the sail switch cannot close due to the fan speed being less than 75% of it’s rated capacity, which also points to the blower motor. The furnace in this unit uses a single motor to drive both the combustion air blower and the room air circulation fan. The fan motor should have it’s connections tested, it’s wiring tested for continuity through the windings and also for a short to ground through any of the windings. A voltage output test from the circuit board to the fan motor and an amperage draw test of the fan motor should be done and compared to the ratings on the fan motor data tag. If the fan motor only hums or turns very slowly, it can be isolated to a known good, stand alone 12vdc power source to verify component failure. There are no start or run capacitors on this fan motor. Carrying out these tests will undoubtedly disturb the LP connections so a thorough LP system test must be conducted at the conclusion of the work.

      Due to the sensitive nature of disturbing those LP connections, you may want to schedule an appointment to have one of our certified RV technicians diagnose the issue and recommend a repair. Here’s where you can find a service center near you: https://rv.campingworld.com/rv-service-maintenance

  • Mark W. Sutton says:

    My converter begins to smoke when I plug into shore power. I replaced the converter but the new one smoked as well. Whats going on?

  • Mark Taylor says:

    Why does the Battery get so Hot to the touch when connected

    • Hi Mark,

      I apologize for the delay, but I wanted to reach out to our technical service team. Here’s their reply:

      This could be a very dangerous situation and the unit must be taken to a CW service center immediately for a free courtesy inspection. The water may be low, a cell shorted, or an improper charge curve may be present. Batteries can get warm, but should never be too hot to touch. Batteries can explode, catch fire, or damage the sensitive and expensive electronics in the RV. This RV should not be used or even plugged in to 120VAC power until this inspection has been completed.

      Here’s a link for you to locate your nearest CW service center: https://rv.campingworld.com/rv-service-maintenance#js-anchor-locations

      Please let us know if you have any follow up questions!

  • Thad Terry says:

    I have a 2016 Passport. I had to replace my batteries and accidentally let the negative cable hit the positive post. It blew both reverse polarity fuses. I replaced the fuses and now the top fuse blows everytime I put in a new one even though the batteries are connected the right way,
    Help please!!

    • steve Chessmore says:

      I have a 2021 keystone e hideout my battery doesn’t stay charged, do I even have a inverter I don’t see anything in my compartment plz help I went thru two batteries already

      • Hi Steve,

        It’s hard for me to say that your issue is inverter-related for certain. I’d highly recommend scheduling an inspection at your local service center. Our techs can perform the proper electrical tests to identify the power issue and recommend your options for repair or part replacement.

        Here’s where you can contact our service department: https://rv.campingworld.com/rv-service-maintenance

        Hope that helps!

        • Tracey says:

          Ok I have a 1993 ford econoline motor home. I believe the RV is called Santara by Coleman. That I am not 100% on. Anyway, it was accidentally hooked up to a 220 plug. And since then when the RV’s ignition is on and it is running, everything works fine. But when the engine is off and it is plugged in to a power source, the a/c works, the outlets, and the stereo. But the stove, fridge, microwave, and I think the over head lights will not work? Help how do I fix this?

          • Hi Tracey,

            Have you checked all breakers and fuses on your RV’s electrical control panel?
            Is the fridge in that unit a two-way (AC and propane) or a three-way (AC, DC, and propane)? And is it not working on any setting, or just when you’re connected to shore power?
            When you say the stove isn’t working, are you referring to the igniter? Or do you have an induction cooktop in that unit?

            I’d wager that our certified RV technicians would have several additional questions, so your best bet might be to schedule an appointment to have your electrical system inspected. Here’s a link where you can find the nearest service center to your location: https://rv.campingworld.com/rv-service-maintenance#js-anchor-locations

    • Hi Thad,

      I reached out to our technical service team to get their thoughts. Here’s their reply:

      Are you absolutely certain they are properly connected? Positive cables can be red, black, yellow, or any other color. Negative can be white, black, green, or any other color. The 2 main fuses protect against reverse polarity and overload. If it keeps popping, it is likely: -too small -reverse polarity -overloaded -damaged wiring or component -battery charged with reversed polarity.

      Let me know if you have any follow up questions!

  • Bernie Hammond says:

    2014 KZ SPREE camper trailer I heard a pop lost power in 2ac outlets and 3dc lights. Checked fuses and circuit breakers all ok fuses ok breaker not tripped reset all still no power. Need help any suggestions.

  • Bill Buckalew says:

    Hello:

    We are having refrigerator control problems, and wonder if they could be caused by converter issues, and would appreciate your input.

    We have a Parallax Model 7355 55Amp converter – 2003 vintage. When I measure DC voltage feeding the DC power distribution board from the converter, I get 13.6v DC, but also measure a 28v AC voltage. I read somewhere that this is known as AC ripple and can adversely affect DC control boards (such as the one on our refrigerator).

    The refrigerator will operate fine on propane, but the minute shore power is hooked up, or the generator is turned on, the refer stops working and the refer control board freezes in the “on” position.

    Would appreciate your thoughts, including whether this AC voltage could be causing problems, and if so, what we can do about it.

    Thanks!!

    • Hi Bill,

      I reached out to our technical service team and here’s their response:

      This sounds like a solid diagnosis. The AC ripple can be perceived by the digital control board as a valid command, resulting in malfunctions. The likely cause is the bridge rectifier or capacitors in the converter. The converter can be easily removed and bench tested on a separate 120vac system and check for AC ripple from the DC output terminals. A good test battery should be attached for a truly accurate test. The full wave bridge rectifier should not have any AC ripple. A ground conductor test and a hot skin test should be performed fist, though, to eliminate these possibilities and to ensure the unit is safe to work on.

      Let us know if you have any follow up questions!

  • Evelyn Toews says:

    Hi, my fridge has power but not cooling, my lights keep burning out and the fan to my panel/ converter is running all the time and goes into high speed. I have an older StarCraft hybrid

  • Michael Robinson says:

    RV has no power at all. On shore power interior lights are very dim. Nothing else works. Generator only clicks when start button is pushed. I now have a fault light on the inverter. I am assuming this is all connected. My question will a bad inverter cause a short which would cause these issues? Seems like something is grounding out which is affecting the whole system.

  • Andrew says:

    I have a van that’s power display reads dead when engine off and high when engine running or plugged into house. Also converter charge light out. I’m guessing my converter is done? Fuses looked ok. Ideas? Thx

    • Hi Andrew,

      There appears to be no power from the converter, so I would first inspect the fuses in the fuse panel and on the converter if so equipped. Also the battery disconnect switch must be in the on position if you have one. The converter should then be bench tested if these items are ok.

      Let us know if you have any follow up questions!

  • Emily says:

    My inverter breaker makes a hum in my RV and we think the fan doesn’t work. Could the fan be the problem or could it the inverter. When we turn off inverter breaker it stops. Help

    • Hi Emily,

      The inverter in my trailer hums when the fan automatically kicks on to keep it cool. Could this be what you’re hearing?

      Can you confirm the fan isn’t cooling the unit as expected? Are you noticing any other electrical issues in your RV?

  • john Vogan says:

    My shore power trips a breaker on the main breaker panel in the house. If I flip the breakers in the trailer off, the breaker wont trip. How would you suggest that I trouble shoot.

    • Hi John,

      My question would be what kind of receptacle you’re plugging into. If it’s a 15 amp or 20 amp 120-volt AC outlet, you won’t be able to use all RV appliances as you would if plugged into a 30-amp power source. What appliances are you trying to run when the breaker on the main panel trips?

      Here is the average amp draw of larger RV appliances:

      Air Conditioner: ~15 amps
      Electric Heating Element for Water Heater: ~10 amps
      Microwave: ~10 amps
      Refrigerator: ~5 amps

      You can see how quickly you can trip a breaker if running multiple appliances simultaneously.

      Hope this helps!

  • Scott Nuechterlein says:

    I recently installed my own inverter, which is connected to a battery bank that is charged by a solar charger via panels on the roof. My goal was to keep the battery bank totally isolated from the house battery so that when connected it would be much like connecting a generator or shore power. The way it connects to the RV is on the side where you would connect a generator or shore power with a generator cable. Everything seemed to be working fine until the inverter randomly started shutting down. In an effort to troubleshoot I tried running it with the converter breaker off, ran the air conditioner for two hours straight and had absolutely no problems. Could the converter be interfering with the inverter somehow? Note: the battery bank is not grounded to the frame because the house battery is and I didn’t want to create a ground loop, but I imagine somewhere along the line coming from the inverter to the RVs AC panel There is a ground going to the frame which might be causing this problem? I thought about plugging a bonding plug into the inverter but not sure if that would do anything. One thing I notice is that when the inverter shuts down it’s pretty hot to the touch, even though it’s not really powering anything. Furthermore, when I ran it with converter breaker off it ran noticeably cooler. Any suggestions?

    • Hi Scott,

      I ran this by a few of our technicians and they had the following questions (and comment):

      – What is the make and model of the inverter?
      – Where are you getting the ground for the inverter?

      When you are using the convertor to operate the inverter, you are actually using the convertor to power the inverter and the inverter to power the convertor (dog chasing it’s tail). We’d want to see a full wire diagram of what has been done.

      It may be best for you to schedule an appointment to have your installation inspected by a certified RV technician: https://rv.campingworld.com/rv-service-maintenance

      Let us know if you have any follow up questions!

  • Jack says:

    I just replaced my old 12 volt batteries with two 12 volt Renogy deep cycle 100ah and the only thing that is working is the powered step and the generator starter, however there is no power to the lights, water pump or fridge like it had previously with the other batteries that had lower ah. It is a 2008 Fleetwood Tioga 25G. What should I look for and troubleshoot?

    • Hi Jack,

      I ran your question by a few of our service technicians and they believe there are two possibilities.

      Either something did not get hooked back up, or a circuit breaker was tripped while reconnecting the batteries. The step and the generator are most likely tied to the engine battery.

      Your safest bet is to have an RV technician inspect your installation ASAP: https://rv.campingworld.com/rv-service-maintenance

      Let us know if you have any follow up questions!

  • Arty says:

    I have a 2007 Alfa, see ya founder, my batteries will only charge when the engine is running. Nothing on shore, power, or while the generator is running.
    Also, I only have 120 V going to the AC on short power and while the generator is running but nothing to my outlets unless I turn on the inverter.

  • Jessica Hodnett says:

    Just replaced the converter in my RV. When I disconnect from shore power I don’t have any DC power. Can you help me?

  • Timothy Titchener says:

    I have a Magnum ME2012 inverter running off 4 – 6Volt batteries. I had the house batteries replace recently. After installing the new batteries when I turn on the disconnect switch to the inverter from the batteries the inverter cycles on and off. When I unplug from the 50Amp input the DC in the coach cycle on and off (12 volt lights come on then off). Any ideas?

    • Hi Timothy!

      I shared your question with our our technical service team and they recommend taking the unit back to the dealer to have the wiring checked on those new batteries. Probably a simple wiring error, but it must be corrected so it doesn’t cause any harm.

      Here’s where you can find the closest dealership to you: https://rv.campingworld.com/locations

      Let us know if you have any follow up questions!

  • Daryl Dame says:

    Why is the time delay fuse going off on the furnace.

    • Hi Daryl!

      Can you go into a little more detail on the events leading up to your issue?

      If you can walk me through your steps of operation and what others signs you’re seeing (i.e., the blower motor comes on before blowing the fuse each time), I can offer a more detailed solution.

      Thanks!

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